GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

With fire burning in Glacier, hike from Highway 2

Tom Kotynski

While Going-to-the-Sun Highway is in the Glacier Park spotlight, U.S. Highway 2 on the park’s southern border is an often overlooked recreational corridor in its own right.

And with the east side of the Going-to-the-Sun Road closed by the Reynolds Creek Fire, U.S. Highway 2 provides an alternative access for hikers looking to explore Glacier’s trails.

The 55-mile drive between East Glacier Park and West Glacier is a portal for hiking, fishing, camping, floating, sight-seeing, backpacking and backcountry skiing and snow shoeing.

In those miles there is quick access to the national park, the Great Bear Wilderness, a national wild and scenic river, and lodging and eating options from rustic to luxurious.

The Goat Lick Overlook pullout, about 2 miles southeast of the Walton Ranger Station near Essex, is one of the most popular stopping points on U.S. Highway 2 where in passes through Glacier.

The centerpiece that ties the corridor together is the translucent green Middle Fork Flathead River that is Glacier’s southern border much of the way. Its whitewater draws floaters and concessionaires who offer trips in an evergreen canyon where Glacier’s Mount St. Nicholas and Great Bear’s Mount Grant are in view. The river, which flows out of the Bear, has been declared Wild and Scenic by Congress.

There are public access points for rafters on the river at Bear Creek, Paola, Cascadilla, Moccasin Creek and West Glacier.

Perhaps, the biggest stopping point is the Goat Lick Overlook pullout, about 2 miles southeast of the Walton Ranger Station near Essex. Visitors walk along a short path that reveals a high, exposed slope of salt-laden minerals above the Middle Fork that attracts mountain goats. Goats are often visible just west beyond the overlook where a bridge on U.S. 2 crosses Snowslide Gulch.

There are more than 30 hiking trails within a short distance of the highway on both sides. The Glacier Park trails are more difficult to reach near the Middle Fork, because crossing the river can be dangerous. Should you choose to hike trails to Loneman lookout, Coal Creek or Harrison Lake, check the park headquarters for current conditions and suggestions on how to cross. There are bridges in the park in West Glacier (to the south boundary trail), and Ole Creek/Scalplock Mountain. Nearer Marias Pass, crossing the Middle Fork is not an issue for Fielding, Autumn Creek and Lubec park trailheads.

Access to trails on the Great Bear side is excellent, but be advised that they gain elevation quickly.

Here are some hiking suggestions on the Park (north) side of the highway:

AUTUMN CREEK (MARIAS PASS): On the park side of Marias Pass there’s a large parking and railroad staging area. Park as near the railroad tracks as possible, cross the tracks and look for the orange tags on the trees in the park. You’ll find a trailhead here. Autumn Creek travels west almost 6 miles before once again reaching Highway 2 (where you’ll need a ride back). The trail is at the base of scenic Summit, Little Dog and Elk mountains. If you decide to go west instead, it is almost 15 miles back to East Glacier Park or 10 miles roundtrip to Firebrand Pass, a worthy goal. A great, short day-hike is to Three Bears Lake, less than a mile from the trailhead. Here you’ll often find moose browsing willows.

LUBEC: Near mile marker 202 there’s a pullout on the park side. Cross the railroad tracks and look for the Park Service trailhead marker on the other side of a fence-line. This trail connects to the Autumn Creek trail in 1.5 miles and passes through gorgeous willow wetlands and aspen groves.

The hike up Elk Mountain is a rugged 3,300-foot climb.

ELK MOUNTAIN: A trail climb which offers exceptional views of the high peaks of the southern end of the park. Look for mile marker 192 and then Forest Service Road 1066. Follow a rough road for about a half-mile until you see a Park Service trailhead. There are a couple of parking spots. The trail is really a road to the railroad tracks. Cross and look for Park Service trail marker. When you reach a patrol cabin, look for the trail junction up Elk Peak. This is a rugged climb of 3,300 feet.

The Ole Creek trail, accessed from U.S. Highway 2, crosses Ole Creek over a suspension bridge.

OLE CREEK/SCALPLOCK MOUNTAIN: Look for the Walton Ranger Station near the Essex turnoff. A trailhead for Ole Creek begins at the end of a picnic area. The trail crosses Ole Creek over a wooden/cable suspension bridge. A little more than a mile up the trail, the Scalplock Lookout trailhead appears. It is an almost 10-mile, 3,100-foot climb to the top, but all on trail and worth it for the views. If you continue up Ole Creek instead, the trail travels on the east flank of Scalplock, high above the creek.

Hikers follow the Scalplock Mountain trail to Scalplock Lookout. This hike is one of several that is accessible from U.S. Highway 2 on the south side of Glacier National Park.

WEST GLACIER/SOUTH BOUNDARY TRAIL: In West Glacier drive toward the park headquarters, turning onto Mather Drive and look for a bridge with interpretive and trailhead signs. It travels along the Belton Hills with great views of the river. A popular turnaround is the Lincoln Lake trail junction, about 5.3 miles one-way.

On the Great Bear (south) side of U.S. Highway 2:

Tranquil Basin is one of many hikes accessible from U.S. Highway 2. The trail passes above a beautiful basin of alpine lakes.

TRANQUIL BASIN (BEAR CREEK): Access from Bear Creek trailhead, 184.8 mile marker, near where the Middle Fork joins with Bear Creek. This is a steep 8 miles roundtrip to just above a beautiful basin of alpine lakes. Take Bear Creek Trail No. 155, follow Trail No. 489 where the two trails come together.

STANTON LAKE: Find the trailhead for Trail No. 146 just past the Stanton Creek Lodge, which is 16 miles east of West Glacier. This is just under 2.5 miles roundtrip to this heavily visited, but scenic lake.

The hike up Ousel Peak, access from U.S. Highwy 2, is just less than 5 miles roundtrip, but gains 3,200 feet of elevation.

OUSEL PEAK: There’s a good sign marking trail heading west on U.S. 2, but finding the trailhead and a place to park could be a problem. It is 6 miles east of West Glacier at 159.6 mile marker on U.S. 2. Roundtrip just under 5 miles, but 3,200 feet gained steeply onto a spectacular Great Bear Wilderness ridge.

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL/MARIAS PASS: From the Marias Pass parking lot/campground locate the trail marker for the Elk Calf Trail No. 137. This ultimately passes below the peak, but hikes along this trail, no matter how far you go are rewarding, and intersect with other trails offering views of Elk Calf Mountain or the South Fork Two Medicine River.

Tom Kotynski is a retired Tribune editor and author of “Discover the Rocky Mountain Front,” recently updated and revised in a second edition published by the Tribune.

Dining and lodging in the area

Both East Glacier Park and West Glacier offer food, lodging, and tourist shopping venues. There are numerous mom-and-pop-type pullouts to eat and sleep in between.

Here are some “must do” destinations:

•East Glacier Park: Glacier Park Lodge, Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant, and hostels at Brownie’s and Backpacker’s Inn. Two Medicine Grill is now “the” place to go for pie (for strength) in the park. Quaint shops and motels line both sides of the railroad tracks.

•Essex: Izaak Walton Inn lodge and restaurant is sandwiched between the Great Bear and Glacier Park. Scenic Inn with good food set back from highway in old railroad switching yard. In winter, great cross country skiing on groomed trails.

•West Glacier: Belton Chalet, lodging and good food.